THE PASSAGE INN

"The Passage" is the centuries old name given to the path leading from the Roman Road - that once linked Bath and Gloucester - and the River Severn crossing at Arlingham to Newnhan and then onward to Wales. History records a great battle took place here in the 4th century A.D. It was a battle involving thousands of men, the most modern weapons of the time and even elephants. The battle lasted many weeks before the Silures (ancient Welsh) were defeated and Wales ultimately conquered. With such drama, Arlingham's place in history was assured. For centuries afterwards the river continued to be crossed here on foot and was particularly popular with revellers on the Newnhan side of the river who would venture to enjoy the cider in Arlingham. Around 250 years ago, however, erosion caused the depth of the water to rise so the river could be crossed only on horseback. Sadly, many a returning tippler succumbed to the perilous waters. Then in the late 19th century a great flood came causing the river to change course, washing away the ford and separating the East and the West banks for ever. For another 50 years or so a ferryman would carry passengers on his back across the mud to his boat on the Newnhan side. He would then row his charges across to Arlingham. It is said that a wise traveller would pay the ferryman only after the return journey had been accomplished for he was wont to spend his earnings at the cider houses in Arlingham. The journey back would then likely be of great hazard, if at all, that night.

This delightful venue occupies the exact point where the crossing once existed. Recently reopened after extensive refurbishment, The Old Passage Inn is fast becoming one of Gloucestershire's most successful fish restaurants.

Run by Josephine (Jo) Moore with the help of international chef, Patrick LeMesurier, their menu speaks volumes about the quality of both the ingredients and the cuisine. It should be mentioned early in this report that all ingredients are fresh and no genetically modified produce is used. A welcome assurance for at least one of our company who enquired.

Starters at such a specialist food house are predictably expensive, but nonetheless, excellent value for money. Particularly high appreciation was expressed at the Assiette of Home Smoked Salmon with a Quinelle of Avruga Caviar at £6.00. My own choice of Salad of Pan Fried Pigeon Breast with Fois Gras on a Bed of French Puy Lentils at £9.75, prepared me just right for my Fresh fish choice, Bouillabaisse, made with Haddock, Wild Sea Bass, Salmon, Lobster and Mussels at £14.25. Two of my guests chose to share a Lobster from the "Live Tank" - although not by pointing the executioner's finger - served with Mayonnaise, Shallot Vinegar, Lemons and Tabasco Sauce, including, on our evening, Crab, Three Oysters, North Sea Prawns, Two Mediterranean Prawns, with Moules and Clam Marinères, at £55.00 for the two dishes. Although we all chose fish for our main courses, non-marine dishes are available There was a short debate when Handmade Organic Lamb Sausages were spotted, flavoured with Rosemary and Garlic, with Mash & Onion Gravy at £7.25. We all agreed, that while at the upper end of the price scale for local restaurants, the meal was exceptional in every sense.

Having enjoyed such excellent food, it came as no surprise to learn that Patrick LeMesurier trained for many years with the Roux brothers at their restaurants in and around London.

Wine is a very personal thing, and in my humble opinion, it is not a good idea to gush forth with exhortations about this wine and that. Especially with such a variety of fish dishes. Each wine changes in character with the dish selected and personal experiences are much enhanced with discussion at the time. I must mention, however, that The Old Passage has a superb choice of exclusive wines from Bordeaux and incredibly good value for money - Champagne of a very acceptable quality is also - at only £23.80 for a Grand Reserve - surprisingly inexpensive. Bollinger, NV, at a celebratory price, is only £35.

Wine Bottles

The restaurant is open six days a week, Tuesday thro' Sunday - 11.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. and 6.30 to 11.00 p.m week-days, and 12 noon to 2.00 p.m. Sunday. Last orders for food are, of course, an hour or so before closing. There are disabled facilities, and a private dining room for up to 12 people is also available.

ACCOMMODATION

I feel obliged in this instance to emphasise the luxurious nature of the bedrooms at the The Old Passage Inn. Overlooking the River Severn, each room is air conditioned, has a large private bathroom, king sized beds and all the other amenities one would expect of a considerably more expensive hotel.

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